From a cup to a distillery. The path of Dennis Zoppi in the working world it was unique. Passionate about coffee, he decided to delve into this ingredient first as a barista and then in world of mixology, of which he has been a frequenter for over twenty years. Now, in the role of master distiller of his Zoppi Distillery, an urban micro-distillery in Turin. We interviewed him to find out more about the history of this company and its products.
Who is Dennis Zoppi
Dennis Zoppi, born in Cremona in 1980, is one of the best known Italian bartenders on the international scene, with twenty years of experience in the sector. Called to be part of various juries in the most important mixology competitions in the world, in recent years he has combined his training and collaboration activities with the major companies operating in the sector with constant experimentation and the creation of new drinks, characterized by use of cutting-edge techniques. He currently collaborates with Buchi, world leader in the production of pressure-controlled distillers, with Diageo, to prepare bartenders for international competition World Class, and with Lavazza, of which it is Global Brand Ambassador, a figure in which the aim is to unite the world of coffee with that of mixing, during the aperitif and after dinner. In 2009 Dennis spread research mixing among the general public in Turin, with the opening of the Smile Tree, local located in the Quadrilateral in which high technique has always rhymed with extreme care in the presentation of cocktails, very often spectacular. Since 2019 he has been the owner and master distiller of an urban micro-distillery, Zoppi Distillery, in which it creates its own and ad hoc products for cocktail bars. With its social channels, it communicates everything know-how which he has learned over the years from non-beginner bartenders from all over the world.
His favorite cocktail is Vermouth & tonic, his spirit is shochu.
WHERE TO DRINK IN TURIN AND SURROUNDINGS
The project
Zoppi Distillery “it was born in 2019 from an inspiration, which then became a need”. The initial idea was to create exclusively tailor-made batches for bars, restaurants and hotels: from spirits to dealcoholized bases. Then, the advent of Covid-19, and the consequent closure of restaurant establishments and of the night did the rest. “The pandemic forced us to change our ideas” and what seemed like plan B became plan A. “The first products with which we came out on the market were three Negroni-based ready-to-drinks (still on the market at Eataly, ed.): classic, with coffee and ginger. Producing gin, vermouth and bitters, the Negroni was one of the few cocktails we could put on the market. The long bureaucracy to sell cocktails made with third-party products prevented us from expanding the portfolio." Then, the production of branded items continued and new products arrived. The initial idea, of customized batches, is now a part of the business, growing over the last year. “We produce on behalf of third parties in cocktail bars in Turin, Veneto, Emilia-Romagna and Campania, which come to us to have tailor-made spirits - bitters, gin but also vermouth - designed starting from scratch: from the bottle to the cap, through the label and capsule . It seems strange, but defining the recipe is the quickest step." The idea, as well as being a business diversification for the distillery, is also for the bars, which can decide to sell these unique bottles on the market as such, rather than using them in mixing. “Our advantage is that we can make a very low minimum order of 300 litres. If the same cocktail bar went to a large company, it could not produce less than 5,000 liters of product."
Products
The production of the urban micro-distillery started with gin, made in three dry variations: Lady Lame, Lady Lame limited edition and Sneiver.
“Lady Blades it is a gin that I dedicated to my wife and which is produced through a long and delicate low-temperature distillation of five botanicals: juniper, damask rose, Timut pepper, bergamot and grapefruit". In the limited edition version - produced exclusively from November to February - mandarin and cinnamon are added to the confirmed juniper and Timut pepper, for a fresh and ripe, citrus, floral and spicy taste result. “The aromatic profile of Sneiver is rather classic and winks at the past", with elderflower, grape must and vine leaves as the three main botanicals.
Zoppi Distillery However, it does not only produce gin, but is also known for interpreting other distillation classics in a personal version.
The shōchū, a Japanese distillate produced from sake-kasu, a by-product of sake pressing, in this case takes the name of Cipango “because it was the first term used by Marco Polo to indicate Japan, in Il Milione". In Zoppi's version, it is appreciated for its umami taste and incredible aromatic profile.
The vermouth, not from Turin, because artemisia is not Piedmontese, is obtained from a Cortese DOC wine, flavored with some ingredients such as grapefruit, elderflower, yarrow, vanilla, distilled at low pressure and not macerated in alcohol, to obtain a softer result.
Another classic of distillation reinterpreted by Zoppi Distillery they are liqueurs - to be tasted neat or mixed - made with shiso, tobacco and fig leaves, because they have an important aroma.
Shiso is Dennis' homage to his beloved Japan and is produced with the leaf of the same name, from the same family as mint and basil. “With this liqueur we have met the needs of bartenders. Shiso is a very difficult ingredient to find fresh in Italy and, when you do, it has very variable prices." Another satisfaction was having conquered an unexpected market share: "the fusion restaurants, where it is served at the end of the meal". Spagyrico – with tobacco leaves – was also created to respond to a need. “There wasn't a product like this on the market but, on the part of the bartenders, there was a demand and a willingness to use it in mixing”. Spagyric is that ancient technique whereby you have to divide and then reunite, just like in this case, in which through different extraction methods, the flavors and aromas of four different tobacco leaves are obtained and then combined at a later time. The flavor of Spagyric is reminiscent of shredded tobacco and is bitter, intense and very aromatic. Eden, with fig leaf, is instead the result of Dennis Zoppi's desire to concentrate "on a purely Italian product, of which many people have olfactory and gustatory memories, in particular of the moment of flowering".
I tolerate it
- 40 ml shiso liqueur @zoppi_distillery
- 10ml rum
- 10 ml lime juice
- 5 mint leaves
- top up soda yuzu
Technique:
Build
In Italy liqueurs rhymes with bitters and, therefore, a homemade bitter could only be created Zoppi Distillery: not just any one, however, and in fact the choice fell on the production of a salty bitter. “Gabelle talks about Piedmont, because in this region there was once the salt route, which started from the Ligurian Riviera and reached Cuneo. A tax was applied to salt, which was called gabelle”. All 18 ingredients used in this amaro come from the salt route: from jasmine to rose, up to chinotto, yarrow and gentianella. The only exception is rhubarb, which gives a bitter note. “The salt is instead added directly into the tank. Its contribution is not only flavor but also aromatic maximization of the other flavours. The result is curious and unique at the same time."
The target
“Our liqueurs are designed to be used in mixing, although many people appreciate them pure and have decided to serve them that way”. For all products, the first approach behind the counter is always the twist on classic.
“Then, when you understand the potential within the glass and get to know the product, you can create personal and contemporary drinks. Since the products are mostly new, I decided to rely on bartenders to make them known to the general public. Consumers arrive later, even if they already know some products like vermouth, while others like Eden, Spagyric and Shiso they are quick to appreciate them."
The products of Zoppi Distillery they are distributed throughout Italy in shops and wine bars and also abroad, in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok and Taiwan – “where there is already a strong response” – waiting to land in Dubai, Germany and France.
“We launched new products until 2021, then we took a break, because these are innovative spirits, which need to be talked about”. Precisely in this sense, the attention to detail does not neglect the packaging either, now handled internally thanks to a graphic studio. If the great work of studying the recipes is all in the hands of Dennis, his wife and PR Manager Manuela Albertelli is fundamental in the communication of the company, as well as in tasting and defining the recipes.
Another chapter in the history of Dennis Zoppi was written. Who knows it might not be the last.