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Luca Di Francia: the secrets of perfect hospitality

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Luke of France

Neapolitan born in 1973, Luke of France – author of the book The perfect bartender. Ingredients, equipment, preparation techniques published last November – is one of the most important masters of Italian hospitality. For almost 30 years an integral part of the bar team of the 5-star luxury The Westin Excelsior Rome, can boast among its mentors an ambassador of the theme: the expert bartender Mauro Lotti. We talked with him about hospitality, what it meant yesterday, what it means today and how customers have changed.

Luke of France

When did you first encounter the world of hospitality?

Since I was young. In high school, I enrolled in the hotel school and, right away, I became passionate about the role of the barman. After my first experiences in restaurants in Campania, already at the age of 17, I was lucky enough to meet Mauro Lotti. For me he was a drinking star and I decided to write him a letter. I was willing to work with him, even for free. He was even the one who came to theEurostars Hotel Excelsior Naples. At the time I was a minor and I went to work with him at Grand Hotel, the current St. Regis Rome.

What did Mauro Lotti give you? 

mauro lotti

He gave me what great masters must give, that is, a lot of passion. With him, I spent two seasons at Grand Hotel, alternating work with my studies. As soon as I graduated, I received from him a one-way ticket to the 5-star luxury hotel Hyde Park London, where I stayed for two years and where I became barman supervisor. After an experience at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva, as a barman, I was called back by Lotti for a position at The Westin Excelsior in Rome. I did the first season as a commis de bar, I became a barman and then I was called by the director for a permanent contract. This is my twenty-eighth year here. 

Lotti was the master for me. Thanks to him, I was able to learn all my knowledge about international classics and, more generally, about mixology. For me, he was also a life teacher. He taught me how to approach the customer. I was enchanted by him and his gentlemanly way of doing things. With guests, but also with other people. For him, the psychological aspect was very important. First of all, you had to understand who the customer was and why he had come to the bar counter, which he defined as “a place of recreation for adults”. Only in this way were we able to pass an hour of pleasure, which he called purple, that is, the hour between day and night. And he always succeeded. 

Were there other important mentors for you?

Yes, Biagio Zecchinelli, Peter Dorelli, Angelo De Valeri and Salvatore Calabrese. I am grateful to them for having learned so much. They have allowed me to dedicate my life to the world of luxury drinking and hospitality. I take away a different lesson from each one.

Zecchinelli he passed on to me the importance of teamwork and the great passion he had for his work, From Valeri the organization and the great commitment, he never spared himself, Dorelli the grit, the energy and the enthusiasm, essential ingredients and Calabrese the great taste in mixing and elegance. These last two then spent a large part of their career abroad, where they were very good at telling the story of Italianness and networking among professionals. I did not have the opportunity to work closely with them, but at the same time their presence was fundamental in my growth path. 

What does hospitality mean to you?

luca di france hospitality

Open your arms. Hospitality is making the guest feel at home. For this, you have to be a real host. Every guest must be treated with kid gloves. For me, hospitality is intimate, I would say homely. When someone comes to the bar, it is as if they were entering my home. Precisely for this reason, I think it is important not to make our customers feel like just guests, but to involve them in our world, which in reality is also theirs. In this sense, the uniform plays an important role. To provide hospitality, you have to be elegant and consistent with the place where you work. In a hotel bar, it is important to have a jacket, shirt and tie. But the clothes do not make the man. The uniform is essential, but you also have to know how to wear it. Otherwise, it is better not to wear it. 

Your career has been a worldwide pilgrimage. Have you found any differences in the approach to hospitality from one country to another?

Yes, definitely. Every country where I have had the opportunity to practice my profession has given me something to complete my professional profile. From France and England I have learned courtesy and discretion, from Asia attention to customers and from South America and Italy warmth. 

Do you think that today's bartenders don't give much importance to hospitality anymore?

I would say that times are different. Luckily for me, I grew up in an in-between time. I saw the school before mine and I saw the current one. Today you want to appear, but you don't know how to listen. Today's bartenders give too much importance to their ego and less to the needs of customers. The way of doing hospitality has changed. While before we had the opportunity to learn etiquette from our customers, now it is the customers themselves who demand a more streamlined service, linked to the wow effect and not to the intrinsic quality of the raw material offered.

How have your customers changed since you started working? 

Customers have changed a lot. Once upon a time, it was easier to have a conversation with a customer, even if they were not regular. Today, what is missing is seeing customers forget about their phones and computers and enjoy an hour of pleasure. Sometimes, I see a difficulty in relating even between customers themselves. Our role today is also to create the right atmosphere for a conversation to start. Unfortunately, today we are much better at communicating behind a screen than face to face.

Martini

The relationship between us and our customers, however, also depends on our mixology proposal. I see that many colleagues today make pre-batched drinks, even without having a need in terms of customer attendance. Is the role of the barman summed up in this? I don't think so, because in this way the most beautiful and fascinating part of our work is distorted. People sit at our counter also to see our elegance and craftsmanship. If I prepare express drinks, I make the customer understand that at that moment he is the most important person for me. If I prepare a pre-batched drink, I am neglecting the sense of hospitality. 

Martini

Do you think the concept of hospitality will evolve further in the coming years? If so, how?

I don't know how to give a certain answer. The customer is thirsty for experience and wants something innovative. Many times, however, innovation lies in the return to simplicity, which in this case means making people feel good far from home.

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Alessio D'Aguanno

Alessio D'Aguanno is the copywriter. He interviews bartenders and talks about the work they do in Italian and worldwide cocktail bars, both in the blog and in the paper guide.